I need to finish my dental work I need another root canal and I need a permanant cap put on the side I already had done, the other side I didn't even start yet it's a missing tooth and it's in the back so it's not really visable it just bothers me because I know I'm missing a tooth. It's around $1000 and would take my whole tax check.
My car is literally falling apart needs a tune up oil change shocks and a new cv joint and axel. Again would take my whole tax check
I owe capital one 1000. Same thing whole tax check
Which one is the most importanat?How should I spend my tax check- 3 options?Well your teeth will have to wait
I was going to choose your car till I seen you owe
Capital One ,
They charge late fees which accrue each month ( or maybe wks I would check it out) this can add up real fast and be very stressful not to mention owing a bank goes on your **Credit
Report** and can of course ruin your credit So forget about buying a new car later.
Trust me pay Capital One
Get someone to drive you to work
and since your teeth arent bothering you to much they can wait
Besides if you dont pay your bills you wont be doing much smiling anyway!!!How should I spend my tax check- 3 options?I would pay capital one, that way you have good credit and you can charge the other 2 things and pay on them, rather than having to pay all at once.How should I spend my tax check- 3 options?I say pay Capital One. Then you'll have one less monthly payment, thus giving you more money each month to put aside for your car and your teeth. And in the long run, if you wait to pay Capital One, you'll be wasting money because of interest rates.How should I spend my tax check- 3 options?get your tooth fixedHow should I spend my tax check- 3 options?Capital One - your credit is very important, so keep it squeeky clean by getting rid of this debt! If you free up the card, then you could always use it again if there's an emergency with your car.
As far as your dental work - find a dentist that takes monthly payments and get it done!
Best wishes!How should I spend my tax check- 3 options?I would fix your car. The other things can wait, but you won't be able to do ANYTHING without your vehicle.How should I spend my tax check- 3 options?I would say, pay off CapitalOne and then go here for a loan from them for your dental needs
http://www.capitalonehealthcarefinance.com/dental/
See which one would offer you a better interest rate and take it from there.How should I spend my tax check- 3 options?the credit card debt. considering you are probably pay close to the min. payment and the interest is probably around 19%. I would get rid of that first. The car, maybe start to look at something a little better and not waste your time on a piece of junk.How should I spend my tax check- 3 options?Tooth. You can get your teeth to the point that they can't be fixed. Everything else can be replaced.How should I spend my tax check- 3 options?pay off the credit card. Sell the car and buy a newer one. As for the dental work .. save up then have the work done.How should I spend my tax check- 3 options?Fix the car. You can pay minimums to Capital One and the dental work is not an emergency. Plus with the car you can get a job to pay for the other things. Without the car, how can you work?How should I spend my tax check- 3 options?Tough one! I would say stay with the crdt card bill.
I would say fix your car and ask if you can make payments on the dental work? Or vise versa some car shops finance now so if they do then why not.How should I spend my tax check- 3 options?Your car is the most important one. With no car you cant get to work to pay for the other things.
Tuesday, November 23, 2010
How do i change the differential in my 1990 Corolla?
1990 Corolla.
Was drained when I filled it up with 80W90 gear oil.
Auto transmission.
US calif. Model. 4AFE engine.
I think something gave way inside(probably a tooth on one of the gears). It starts rolling, I hear a loud crack, and the left wheel shakes.
It started doing it when it turned only, now it does it going straight too.
CV joints are new and OK.
Tie rods Ok(new)
Steering perfect.
Brakes perfect( new caliper) New pads.
Auto transmission: new filter and fluid. Seems to work smooth( Then again, I have never seen what a broken down auto transmission feels like; anyone knows the symptoms of a faulty transission?)
My diagnosis is that my problem is the differantial, but i do not even know if i can just replace the differential alone(it is front wheel drive) or if it is part of the auto transmission.
ps. I have both Chiltons AND Haynes repair manuals, but neither talk .... about the differential. They go off track talking about the all wheel drive wagon transfer case.How do i change the differential in my 1990 Corolla?I'm a little skeptical, %26quot;a loud crack%26quot; doesn't quite do it for me. I would inspect the suspension and CV joints again.
However, the car is a front wheel drive so the differential should allow slippage as the wheels turn. Fast repetitive slippage and seizing could possibly cause the wheel to shake. 80W90 does sound a little light, I would have guessed 85 or even 90 weight oil do to the direct connection to the transmission. The differential should be bolted on to the bellhousing, so you should be able to remove it without the transmission but I wouldn't know for sure without looking at it. I suggest removing the differential cover and checking the gear teeth for wear or any metal loose pieces of metal (there should be a magnet at the bottom that collects these). A bad transmission wouldn't cause the symptoms your describing. Normally when an automatic transmission fails it tends to burn fluid, slip, shift really rough, sick in one gear, not go forward or not go into reverse, hell I've even seen cause the engine to die out. You might be able to find one in the junkyard.
Anyway, good luck with that, I hope you figure it out and get it resolved. I'm curious to know what it is.
Was drained when I filled it up with 80W90 gear oil.
Auto transmission.
US calif. Model. 4AFE engine.
I think something gave way inside(probably a tooth on one of the gears). It starts rolling, I hear a loud crack, and the left wheel shakes.
It started doing it when it turned only, now it does it going straight too.
CV joints are new and OK.
Tie rods Ok(new)
Steering perfect.
Brakes perfect( new caliper) New pads.
Auto transmission: new filter and fluid. Seems to work smooth( Then again, I have never seen what a broken down auto transmission feels like; anyone knows the symptoms of a faulty transission?)
My diagnosis is that my problem is the differantial, but i do not even know if i can just replace the differential alone(it is front wheel drive) or if it is part of the auto transmission.
ps. I have both Chiltons AND Haynes repair manuals, but neither talk .... about the differential. They go off track talking about the all wheel drive wagon transfer case.How do i change the differential in my 1990 Corolla?I'm a little skeptical, %26quot;a loud crack%26quot; doesn't quite do it for me. I would inspect the suspension and CV joints again.
However, the car is a front wheel drive so the differential should allow slippage as the wheels turn. Fast repetitive slippage and seizing could possibly cause the wheel to shake. 80W90 does sound a little light, I would have guessed 85 or even 90 weight oil do to the direct connection to the transmission. The differential should be bolted on to the bellhousing, so you should be able to remove it without the transmission but I wouldn't know for sure without looking at it. I suggest removing the differential cover and checking the gear teeth for wear or any metal loose pieces of metal (there should be a magnet at the bottom that collects these). A bad transmission wouldn't cause the symptoms your describing. Normally when an automatic transmission fails it tends to burn fluid, slip, shift really rough, sick in one gear, not go forward or not go into reverse, hell I've even seen cause the engine to die out. You might be able to find one in the junkyard.
Anyway, good luck with that, I hope you figure it out and get it resolved. I'm curious to know what it is.
Replace CV Joint Axle for 1996 Toyota Camry - Advice Needed?
An oil change at the Toyota dealership for my 1996 Camry (with 160k miles) resulted in a recommendation to replace both CV joints because they had split (I assume that the boots have split). The dealership is quoting $350 per axle to do this work. A local mechanic is asking for $150 per axle.
My questions are:
1. How serious is this condition? I hear that a clicking sound is an indication of this being a serious issue but I don't hear anything when driving my car.
2. There's a huge cost differential between the dealership and the local mechanic. Any advice for me on which I should choose?Replace CV Joint Axle for 1996 Toyota Camry - Advice Needed?First of all 350 per axle is way too much. On the other hand 150 per axle seems way cheap. Is your local %26quot;mechanic%26quot; giving you at least a one year warranty parts and labor? If he is, then jump on that. Is your local mechanics shop a reputable repair facility? Also fyi, usually it's just the outer boots that tear, so if you dont hear any clicking noises when turning you can just replace the boots. The boots cost about ten dollars each and I would guess the labor would be an hour a side to install them. The whole key to cv shafts is to catch the boot when it first tears, that way you can replace the boot before all the grease is lost and damage is done to the joints.Replace CV Joint Axle for 1996 Toyota Camry - Advice Needed?if you gotta have original everything, than go with the dealership.
If you go with the local mechanic, at least show up with toyota transmission fluid, because it's going to leak out when they pull the drive shafts.Replace CV Joint Axle for 1996 Toyota Camry - Advice Needed?if the boots are busted ,replace them. there are replacement boots you can put on without having to pull the axles. check with your local parts store. they are fairly easy to put on. just follow the instructions.
My questions are:
1. How serious is this condition? I hear that a clicking sound is an indication of this being a serious issue but I don't hear anything when driving my car.
2. There's a huge cost differential between the dealership and the local mechanic. Any advice for me on which I should choose?Replace CV Joint Axle for 1996 Toyota Camry - Advice Needed?First of all 350 per axle is way too much. On the other hand 150 per axle seems way cheap. Is your local %26quot;mechanic%26quot; giving you at least a one year warranty parts and labor? If he is, then jump on that. Is your local mechanics shop a reputable repair facility? Also fyi, usually it's just the outer boots that tear, so if you dont hear any clicking noises when turning you can just replace the boots. The boots cost about ten dollars each and I would guess the labor would be an hour a side to install them. The whole key to cv shafts is to catch the boot when it first tears, that way you can replace the boot before all the grease is lost and damage is done to the joints.Replace CV Joint Axle for 1996 Toyota Camry - Advice Needed?if you gotta have original everything, than go with the dealership.
If you go with the local mechanic, at least show up with toyota transmission fluid, because it's going to leak out when they pull the drive shafts.Replace CV Joint Axle for 1996 Toyota Camry - Advice Needed?if the boots are busted ,replace them. there are replacement boots you can put on without having to pull the axles. check with your local parts store. they are fairly easy to put on. just follow the instructions.
I think the CV joint on my driver's side is going bad (looks a little wet), how long can i Drive on it?
I looked at my CV joints and the one on the driver's side has some kind of oil on it. How long can I drive with it being like that until itll need to be replaced? And how much will it cost me when i do have to have it done? Would i just need it replaced on that one side? I dont have a lot of money.
Also, i have some oil leaking from around the oil pan. Its not a lot just a few drips here and there. What could be the cause of that? Should i take it back to the last place that changed my oil and have them fix it? The oil was changed about a week and a half ago. Can i keep driving it with this leak until my next oil change since the leak is so small?
The car is a 2000 Civic Si.I think the CV joint on my driver's side is going bad (looks a little wet), how long can i Drive on it?1 if the CV joint isnt clicking/clacking it will/could last for years and 20/40K miles cost is 200 per side.. if it has 125,000 mi or more do both sides while its at shop
Oli pan...a simple oil change will not cause lots of leak//unless guy poured 1/2 qt down the side or overfilled [did u chek level] wip it clean and see what it really is doing before asking a mechanic..[they aim to please and will be happy to put a new 500 dollar oil pan gasget %26quot;just to be safe%26quot; could b valve cover gasget..I think the CV joint on my driver's side is going bad (looks a little wet), how long can i Drive on it?If the CV joint is going bad, it will start to make noise when you turn. You can drive it until it breaks or until you can't stand the noise.
Also, i have some oil leaking from around the oil pan. Its not a lot just a few drips here and there. What could be the cause of that? Should i take it back to the last place that changed my oil and have them fix it? The oil was changed about a week and a half ago. Can i keep driving it with this leak until my next oil change since the leak is so small?
The car is a 2000 Civic Si.I think the CV joint on my driver's side is going bad (looks a little wet), how long can i Drive on it?1 if the CV joint isnt clicking/clacking it will/could last for years and 20/40K miles cost is 200 per side.. if it has 125,000 mi or more do both sides while its at shop
Oli pan...a simple oil change will not cause lots of leak//unless guy poured 1/2 qt down the side or overfilled [did u chek level] wip it clean and see what it really is doing before asking a mechanic..[they aim to please and will be happy to put a new 500 dollar oil pan gasget %26quot;just to be safe%26quot; could b valve cover gasget..I think the CV joint on my driver's side is going bad (looks a little wet), how long can i Drive on it?If the CV joint is going bad, it will start to make noise when you turn. You can drive it until it breaks or until you can't stand the noise.
How do I get the nut that holds the rotor on to come off?
We have tried everything even broke a craftsman socket! We tried using a pipe and I need a suggestion please! It is on the drivers front side on a 1992 Honda accord. We are trying to change the halfshaft as the cv joint was bad. Thank you.How do I get the nut that holds the rotor on to come off?take the cotter pin out first then use the socket!!!!!!!!!How do I get the nut that holds the rotor on to come off?Shops have a special tool to remove the rotors
http://www.superhonda.com/forum/f13/fron
http://209.85.215.104/search?q=cache:CZLgrow hair pink hair
http://www.superhonda.com/forum/f13/fron
http://209.85.215.104/search?q=cache:CZL
I am writing this because I have an issue with my car, and so far everyone I ask gives a different answer?
It's really 3 issues.
1. The car makes a grinding noise, like a pencil in a pencil sharpener or a card in spokes when I go above 40mph. The only thing is it's not consistant. If you think of the accelerater peddle like a scale of 0%-100%, then after 40mph it makes the noise between 0%-10% then runs smoth from 10%-20%, then grinds at 20%-30%, then after that it makes no noise no matter how far I push the accelerater down. It only does it above 40mph, and almost litterally the grinding shuts off when it drops below 40mph. The sound appears to be comming from the engine and I can feel a vibration the foot pedal.
2. The car makes a rattling noise occassionally, when initially accelerating, like metal smacking but in a rattling manor. If I allow the car to idle in park and rev the engine to approx. 3000/rpms then in makes the noise continuesly (but only in park or nutral) Also on occasions I hear the noise when turning the wheel at slow speeds. I've looked under the hood, and it seems like the noise is either comming from behind the engine, or under it. I do not hear the noise when
I am driving unless, it is related to issue one, but they seem like seperate noises.
3. The last thing, I believe I may know, but just to be sure. The vehicle seems like it is struggling to stay alive when idle or stopped at at light/sign. It's worse in park or nutral, but not as bad in drive. It also tends to shake (the whole car) when I am stopped, unless I put it in park or nutral at a light/sign. (This I have no clue)- Beyond that the accelerator seems to stick when initially engaging then surges forward like it recieved alot of power, and this happens not matter if I ease my foot onto the pedal or not. Also when I make a stop it does fine all the way till I am almost compltly stopped, then it almost seems like the tires lock, but it jerks foward everytime (only at complete stops, not slowing down).
Some vehicle info-
1991 Ford Excort 1.9L wagon.
65k Odometer (but turns over at 100k so could be 165k)
So far we've changed the oil, flushed the radiator, changed the air filter, and changed the fuel pump. We tried changing the CV joints, only to pull them off and find them in new condition. Also, not pertinent, we have rotated the tires.
Not sure what it is, I have heard a ton of suggestions, none being consistent. I also took it to AutoZone for a free diagnostic, and he said it read fine. I am not eager to jump to a mechanic, just to pay a ton only to figure out the problem. I don't mind going to one, but would like to know the problem first, so I know what to expect. Also, if it's a few small things it would be great to just take care of them myself. ThanksI am writing this because I have an issue with my car, and so far everyone I ask gives a different answer?You said if you %26quot;allow the car to idle in park and rev the engine to approximately 3000 rpms then it makes the noise continuously.%26quot; That is a very revealing clue which isolates the grinding noise to a part which is moving while the car is stationary and not in motion. The first things I would suspect are the a/c clutch bearing, the alternator bearing, or the transaxle/transmission main shaft (aka input shaft) bearing. But since you also said that you %26quot;can feel a vibration [in] the foot pedal%26quot; and that %26quot;the noise is either coming from behind the engine or under it,%26quot; I wouldn't bet a ham sandwich that the grinding/rattling noise is coming from the a/c clutch bearing or the alternator bearing. That makes the transaxle/transmission main shaft bearing my #1 suspect. But regardless of where the grinding noise is coming from, if the noise is continuous at 3000 rpm while in Park as you say, then it would be a simple matter to trace and identify using a mechanics stethoscope or a listening rod.I am writing this because I have an issue with my car, and so far everyone I ask gives a different answer?extremely good description of the problem. i tend to think u have a clogged exaust system/ catalitic converter.I am writing this because I have an issue with my car, and so far everyone I ask gives a different answer?Alot of mechanics will give you a free estimate and check out your car for free. make some calls and find out who can do this for you.I am writing this because I have an issue with my car, and so far everyone I ask gives a different answer?Problem 1 is definitely a wheel bearing.
Problem 2 sounds like an exhaust rattle, could even be the converter broke apart and pieces are in there, or even some of that heat insulator they put on at the factory is coming loose.
Problem 3 could be a few things, a tune up may fix it, maybe try some fuel injector cleaner too, thats where I would start.I am writing this because I have an issue with my car, and so far everyone I ask gives a different answer?I would think that the wheeI bearings would have been checked when the cv joints were replaced.
I think you need to inspect the motor/transmission mounts. If they are worn the engine/transaxle assembly will shift and make for weird noises and amplify small vibrations into loud ugly ones. It also allows the assembly to shift under cornering.
The surging problem sounds like a vacuum leak.I am writing this because I have an issue with my car, and so far everyone I ask gives a different answer?1. idk
2.idk
3. i know, escorts are knwon to have rough idles, try cleaning the IAC valve
1. The car makes a grinding noise, like a pencil in a pencil sharpener or a card in spokes when I go above 40mph. The only thing is it's not consistant. If you think of the accelerater peddle like a scale of 0%-100%, then after 40mph it makes the noise between 0%-10% then runs smoth from 10%-20%, then grinds at 20%-30%, then after that it makes no noise no matter how far I push the accelerater down. It only does it above 40mph, and almost litterally the grinding shuts off when it drops below 40mph. The sound appears to be comming from the engine and I can feel a vibration the foot pedal.
2. The car makes a rattling noise occassionally, when initially accelerating, like metal smacking but in a rattling manor. If I allow the car to idle in park and rev the engine to approx. 3000/rpms then in makes the noise continuesly (but only in park or nutral) Also on occasions I hear the noise when turning the wheel at slow speeds. I've looked under the hood, and it seems like the noise is either comming from behind the engine, or under it. I do not hear the noise when
I am driving unless, it is related to issue one, but they seem like seperate noises.
3. The last thing, I believe I may know, but just to be sure. The vehicle seems like it is struggling to stay alive when idle or stopped at at light/sign. It's worse in park or nutral, but not as bad in drive. It also tends to shake (the whole car) when I am stopped, unless I put it in park or nutral at a light/sign. (This I have no clue)- Beyond that the accelerator seems to stick when initially engaging then surges forward like it recieved alot of power, and this happens not matter if I ease my foot onto the pedal or not. Also when I make a stop it does fine all the way till I am almost compltly stopped, then it almost seems like the tires lock, but it jerks foward everytime (only at complete stops, not slowing down).
Some vehicle info-
1991 Ford Excort 1.9L wagon.
65k Odometer (but turns over at 100k so could be 165k)
So far we've changed the oil, flushed the radiator, changed the air filter, and changed the fuel pump. We tried changing the CV joints, only to pull them off and find them in new condition. Also, not pertinent, we have rotated the tires.
Not sure what it is, I have heard a ton of suggestions, none being consistent. I also took it to AutoZone for a free diagnostic, and he said it read fine. I am not eager to jump to a mechanic, just to pay a ton only to figure out the problem. I don't mind going to one, but would like to know the problem first, so I know what to expect. Also, if it's a few small things it would be great to just take care of them myself. ThanksI am writing this because I have an issue with my car, and so far everyone I ask gives a different answer?You said if you %26quot;allow the car to idle in park and rev the engine to approximately 3000 rpms then it makes the noise continuously.%26quot; That is a very revealing clue which isolates the grinding noise to a part which is moving while the car is stationary and not in motion. The first things I would suspect are the a/c clutch bearing, the alternator bearing, or the transaxle/transmission main shaft (aka input shaft) bearing. But since you also said that you %26quot;can feel a vibration [in] the foot pedal%26quot; and that %26quot;the noise is either coming from behind the engine or under it,%26quot; I wouldn't bet a ham sandwich that the grinding/rattling noise is coming from the a/c clutch bearing or the alternator bearing. That makes the transaxle/transmission main shaft bearing my #1 suspect. But regardless of where the grinding noise is coming from, if the noise is continuous at 3000 rpm while in Park as you say, then it would be a simple matter to trace and identify using a mechanics stethoscope or a listening rod.I am writing this because I have an issue with my car, and so far everyone I ask gives a different answer?extremely good description of the problem. i tend to think u have a clogged exaust system/ catalitic converter.I am writing this because I have an issue with my car, and so far everyone I ask gives a different answer?Alot of mechanics will give you a free estimate and check out your car for free. make some calls and find out who can do this for you.I am writing this because I have an issue with my car, and so far everyone I ask gives a different answer?Problem 1 is definitely a wheel bearing.
Problem 2 sounds like an exhaust rattle, could even be the converter broke apart and pieces are in there, or even some of that heat insulator they put on at the factory is coming loose.
Problem 3 could be a few things, a tune up may fix it, maybe try some fuel injector cleaner too, thats where I would start.I am writing this because I have an issue with my car, and so far everyone I ask gives a different answer?I would think that the wheeI bearings would have been checked when the cv joints were replaced.
I think you need to inspect the motor/transmission mounts. If they are worn the engine/transaxle assembly will shift and make for weird noises and amplify small vibrations into loud ugly ones. It also allows the assembly to shift under cornering.
The surging problem sounds like a vacuum leak.I am writing this because I have an issue with my car, and so far everyone I ask gives a different answer?1. idk
2.idk
3. i know, escorts are knwon to have rough idles, try cleaning the IAC valve
How to take out an axle on a dogde intrepid?
I have a 1997 dodge intepid that i want to change the passenger side cv joint. I can not get it out. I have pulled on it quite hard but no luck. What should I do.How to take out an axle on a dogde intrepid?once you get it clear all you have to do is give it one real hard jerk and it will come out,dave told you right on this one,its real easy to get those out,good luck.How to take out an axle on a dogde intrepid?I assume you are trying to release it from the trans. You cant do that by pulling on it. You need to get behind the inner joint with a descent sized pry-bar between the joint and the trans itself. Don't try slow steady pressure. It takes a hard sudden SNAP with the pry-bar to pop it loose. There is a circlip at the end of the inner joint shaft holding it into the trans.
Best of Luck!
Best of Luck!
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