How do I get the nut that holds the rotor on to come off?

We have tried everything even broke a craftsman socket! We tried using a pipe and I need a suggestion please! It is on the drivers front side on a 1992 Honda accord. We are trying to change the halfshaft as the cv joint was bad. Thank you.How do I get the nut that holds the rotor on to come off?take the cotter pin out first then use the socket!!!!!!!!!How do I get the nut that holds the rotor on to come off?Shops have a special tool to remove the rotors



http://www.superhonda.com/forum/f13/fron



http://209.85.215.104/search?q=cache:CZL

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I am writing this because I have an issue with my car, and so far everyone I ask gives a different answer?

It's really 3 issues.



1. The car makes a grinding noise, like a pencil in a pencil sharpener or a card in spokes when I go above 40mph. The only thing is it's not consistant. If you think of the accelerater peddle like a scale of 0%-100%, then after 40mph it makes the noise between 0%-10% then runs smoth from 10%-20%, then grinds at 20%-30%, then after that it makes no noise no matter how far I push the accelerater down. It only does it above 40mph, and almost litterally the grinding shuts off when it drops below 40mph. The sound appears to be comming from the engine and I can feel a vibration the foot pedal.



2. The car makes a rattling noise occassionally, when initially accelerating, like metal smacking but in a rattling manor. If I allow the car to idle in park and rev the engine to approx. 3000/rpms then in makes the noise continuesly (but only in park or nutral) Also on occasions I hear the noise when turning the wheel at slow speeds. I've looked under the hood, and it seems like the noise is either comming from behind the engine, or under it. I do not hear the noise when

I am driving unless, it is related to issue one, but they seem like seperate noises.



3. The last thing, I believe I may know, but just to be sure. The vehicle seems like it is struggling to stay alive when idle or stopped at at light/sign. It's worse in park or nutral, but not as bad in drive. It also tends to shake (the whole car) when I am stopped, unless I put it in park or nutral at a light/sign. (This I have no clue)- Beyond that the accelerator seems to stick when initially engaging then surges forward like it recieved alot of power, and this happens not matter if I ease my foot onto the pedal or not. Also when I make a stop it does fine all the way till I am almost compltly stopped, then it almost seems like the tires lock, but it jerks foward everytime (only at complete stops, not slowing down).



Some vehicle info-

1991 Ford Excort 1.9L wagon.

65k Odometer (but turns over at 100k so could be 165k)



So far we've changed the oil, flushed the radiator, changed the air filter, and changed the fuel pump. We tried changing the CV joints, only to pull them off and find them in new condition. Also, not pertinent, we have rotated the tires.





Not sure what it is, I have heard a ton of suggestions, none being consistent. I also took it to AutoZone for a free diagnostic, and he said it read fine. I am not eager to jump to a mechanic, just to pay a ton only to figure out the problem. I don't mind going to one, but would like to know the problem first, so I know what to expect. Also, if it's a few small things it would be great to just take care of them myself. ThanksI am writing this because I have an issue with my car, and so far everyone I ask gives a different answer?You said if you %26quot;allow the car to idle in park and rev the engine to approximately 3000 rpms then it makes the noise continuously.%26quot; That is a very revealing clue which isolates the grinding noise to a part which is moving while the car is stationary and not in motion. The first things I would suspect are the a/c clutch bearing, the alternator bearing, or the transaxle/transmission main shaft (aka input shaft) bearing. But since you also said that you %26quot;can feel a vibration [in] the foot pedal%26quot; and that %26quot;the noise is either coming from behind the engine or under it,%26quot; I wouldn't bet a ham sandwich that the grinding/rattling noise is coming from the a/c clutch bearing or the alternator bearing. That makes the transaxle/transmission main shaft bearing my #1 suspect. But regardless of where the grinding noise is coming from, if the noise is continuous at 3000 rpm while in Park as you say, then it would be a simple matter to trace and identify using a mechanics stethoscope or a listening rod.I am writing this because I have an issue with my car, and so far everyone I ask gives a different answer?extremely good description of the problem. i tend to think u have a clogged exaust system/ catalitic converter.I am writing this because I have an issue with my car, and so far everyone I ask gives a different answer?Alot of mechanics will give you a free estimate and check out your car for free. make some calls and find out who can do this for you.I am writing this because I have an issue with my car, and so far everyone I ask gives a different answer?Problem 1 is definitely a wheel bearing.

Problem 2 sounds like an exhaust rattle, could even be the converter broke apart and pieces are in there, or even some of that heat insulator they put on at the factory is coming loose.

Problem 3 could be a few things, a tune up may fix it, maybe try some fuel injector cleaner too, thats where I would start.I am writing this because I have an issue with my car, and so far everyone I ask gives a different answer?I would think that the wheeI bearings would have been checked when the cv joints were replaced.

I think you need to inspect the motor/transmission mounts. If they are worn the engine/transaxle assembly will shift and make for weird noises and amplify small vibrations into loud ugly ones. It also allows the assembly to shift under cornering.

The surging problem sounds like a vacuum leak.I am writing this because I have an issue with my car, and so far everyone I ask gives a different answer?1. idk

2.idk

3. i know, escorts are knwon to have rough idles, try cleaning the IAC valve

How to take out an axle on a dogde intrepid?

I have a 1997 dodge intepid that i want to change the passenger side cv joint. I can not get it out. I have pulled on it quite hard but no luck. What should I do.How to take out an axle on a dogde intrepid?once you get it clear all you have to do is give it one real hard jerk and it will come out,dave told you right on this one,its real easy to get those out,good luck.How to take out an axle on a dogde intrepid?I assume you are trying to release it from the trans. You cant do that by pulling on it. You need to get behind the inner joint with a descent sized pry-bar between the joint and the trans itself. Don't try slow steady pressure. It takes a hard sudden SNAP with the pry-bar to pop it loose. There is a circlip at the end of the inner joint shaft holding it into the trans.

Best of Luck!

CV joints on a Daihatsu Charade?

Any advice appreciated on how to change these joints. Do I need special tools or will the ordinary ones do? They are making a lot of noise turning corners and need to be replaced. ThanksCV joints on a Daihatsu Charade?As much as I like to see people do their own maintenance, this particular job requires a professional and some specialty tools.CV joints on a Daihatsu Charade?Not sure what tools you'll need for your car. Have you got a haynes manual?CV joints on a Daihatsu Charade?WOW!! you have one of those??????



i have literally only seen 2 of those in my entire life.. i remember specifically making fun of it because it was called charade....



%26quot;maybe it's a car.... maybe it's a rollerskate with a motor%26quot;



sorry... i digress.



So i assume you actually FOUND parts for it? if you need a special tool, it's pretty unlikely you'll find it..



i'm sorry i can't provide legitimate help, i was just so surprised to see that you had a charade.. i wish you luck though :)

HOw much would it cost to fix CV joint and struts?

HI I have a 91 Cavalier Z24 and need to get a new CV joint on right side and new struts....just wondering about how much that would cost. I do live in Canada so I dont know if that will change the price at all.HOw much would it cost to fix CV joint and struts?CV joint would roughly be about 150 to 215, all depends on brand they use, but they just replace the whole thing.



Struts would roughly be about 45 to 60 per corner. Again all depends on quality and type they use.



They will probably do a wheel alignment also an inspection.

So let's say, 50 per corner, and 175 for CV, so 375 for parts, if no other parts are needed.



It would take about 20 min to 40 min per conrder for the struts, and about 45 min to 1.5 hr for the CV Joint, all depends if any complications happen, bolts snaps, blah blah.



I dont know what the average going rate is per shop, but I've seen them range from 65 to 125 per hour.



So let's say they are 85 per hour, so 160 for the struts for the labour, and another hour for the strut, so you are looking at 245 for labour.



Parts 375 + Labour 245 = 620.00 + applicable taxes and waste charges.



Remember this is just estimates I am pulling out of the air and so I dont know where in Canada, and how much different mechanics costs.HOw much would it cost to fix CV joint and struts?Here in Detroit that would run you $400.00 to $600.00 depending on whether any additional parts like strut mounts or CV boots need to be replaced as well.HOw much would it cost to fix CV joint and struts?$550 total, but I'm not sure that includes a wheel realignment if needed which is sixty dollars more. Make sure to have the upper strut isolator bearings replaced at the same time.

Has anyone changed the cv joints on a car before? If so I'd like to know how difficult it was.?

i have replaced a lot of cv axles never just the joint. if you replace the whole axle it is pretty easyHas anyone changed the cv joints on a car before? If so I'd like to know how difficult it was.?Its much easier and cost effective to replace the whole axle then to replace just the cv joints. Either way you would have to pull the axle completely out.Has anyone changed the cv joints on a car before? If so I'd like to know how difficult it was.?Used to change them all the time. but now it's cheaper to buy a rebuilt shaft for around 50 dollars. Either way it's about an hour and a half laborHas anyone changed the cv joints on a car before? If so I'd like to know how difficult it was.?I would not take a run at it if you are a novice. If you have some experience working on cars it won't be to difficult. Make sure you have the time to do it, cause it can take a while with a difficult vehicle.Has anyone changed the cv joints on a car before? If so I'd like to know how difficult it was.?i have it wasnt to bad if you have ever remove the brakes then you was almost there but id get a book it will tell you the steps you have to take.. i do remember the four bolts that hold the spindle was tough to break loose

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How do I take the cv joint off the axel to change the axel boot in a 93 mercury villager?

I have the axel off. I just can't get the cv joint off. It the front axelHow do I take the cv joint off the axel to change the axel boot in a 93 mercury villager?See if there is a 'Quik-Boot' kit available for your villager. This is a 2 part boot with clamps. All you would have to do is cut the old clamps, cut the old boot off, put the 'Quik-Boot' on around the joint, add CV grease provided, clamp it in place and viola, done.How do I take the cv joint off the axel to change the axel boot in a 93 mercury villager?the only thing holding the boot on is a clamp.How do I take the cv joint off the axel to change the axel boot in a 93 mercury villager?just replace the old cv axle with a reman cv axle....it comes preassembled full of grease 2 new boots and a warranty ..what more do you wantHow do I take the cv joint off the axel to change the axel boot in a 93 mercury villager?There is a nut that attaches the CV joint to the transaxle. You need an inner CV joint removal tool to take it off. You can rent them at Autozone, Advance Auto Parts, etc.How do I take the cv joint off the axel to change the axel boot in a 93 mercury villager?Have you looked at the replacement boot? You should not have to take the CV joint off of the axle. The old boot however normally must be cut off. The new one will have an open side on it to wrap it around the axle, and a way to seal it after it's around the axle. There is no need to remove the axle from the vehicle.



As for removal, there are 2 common types of cv joints.



1 requires heating the outer portion of the joint till the bearings come out. Doing this wrong can ruin the half shaft. I don't suggest trying.



The other has retaining clips which may be hidden by old grease. Clean the shaft well, then examine it. You should replace the grease anyway.How do I take the cv joint off the axel to change the axel boot in a 93 mercury villager?It has to be pressed off and the new one pressed back on, that is the only way. Any other way will destroy the parts.How do I take the cv joint off the axel to change the axel boot in a 93 mercury villager?IT WILL EITHER HAVE A SMALL CLIP OR NOTHING HOLDING IT ON.



YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO JUST ALIGN THE JOINT WITH THE AXLE AND TAP IT OFF WITH A BRASS HAMMER, ITS THAT SIMPLE.



YOU DO NOT HAVE TO HAVE IT PRESSED ON AND OFF.



BUT I DO AGREE WITH GETTING A COMPLETE AXLE ASSEMBLY, BALANCED SHAFT, 2 JOINTS, 2 BOOTS, 4 CLAMPS AND A NEW NUT....$69.95 TO 99.95